2015 Domaine des Miroirs (Kenjiro Kagami) Chardonnay 'Sonorité du Vent ,' Vin de France

Kenjiro’s path to his own domaine was a long and slow one that included work in many of the greatest wine cellars in France and when you talk to him about his production, he’s often referencing a lot of that experience. He has a hold on how VA ages and integrates thanks to watching the amazing wines of Bruno Schueller develop in bottle. He learned about the details of how to handle Jura varieties from Jean-François Ganevat. It wasn’t until moving to the other side of the world, learning a new language, going to oenology school, and learning from some of the greatest producers alive did he acquire a 4 hectare parcel outside of Grusse, near the famed village of Rotalier. It’s a special parcel on a fairly steep slope completely surrounded by forest. I’ve got a particular appreciation for vineyards surrounded by nature. They make wine in a small, old building in town and they all spend time in old barrels before release. For me, this is one of the things the best natural wine makers do if they can afford it, which is to wait on the wine and bottle them at precisely the best moment for each wine. I think he’s a real master at this as the wines ofter hug that edge of reduction and openness.