There are usually 4 barrels of ‘Griotte-Chambertin’ in this perfectionist Gevrey cellar. When you taste the wine for the first time, in particular after the rest of the range, Jean-Marie's intentions with his single domaine-bottled grand cru come sharply into focus.
Producers domaine-bottling a single grand cru often give us an example overburdened with ambition. I remember an illustrative experience from a domaine visit a couple years back. At the end of a lovely tasting the winemaker splashed our little group a thickly oaked and just as extracted grand cru. The nose seemed heavy and plodding after its nimbler cellarmates though the winemaker smilingly urged ‘A grand cru must be grand!’
Fourrier’s lone domaine-bottled grand cru is more a marvel of detail than power. It can be uncannily subtle with age, a peacock’s tail of spice and floral nuances. Its expressive mode is strong and clear and free, the fruit always exuberant and alert. I’ve never once felt a bottle angled for grandness. Served after the premiers the 'Griotte' difference is one of textural agility and aromatic width.
Three fun vintages here, including the not-yet-tasted but critically fawned ’22. Love the ’20, which bests the ‘Clos St. Jacques’ by wider margin than usual. The ’18 centers hedonism - 'lush' feels right - but does its usual fanning out on the finish. It falls into none of the ’18 traps.
Cheers,
Jason
