I find it useful to conceptualize Burgundy by a series of ascending degrees. We oftener take as starting point the region’s grands crus, conflate these with ‘bestness,’ then work descendingly down the appellation hierarchy by imagined degrees of inferiority.
I prefer to start with a simpler and more loving premise: Burgundy is special. Some vineyards (and wines) are especially special, fewer still especially especially special. But the fundament of Burgundy is specialness. ’Here’s a well-made wine from the most privileged region in our wide world for growing grapes and making wine.’ Entry-level is an illusion.
This tidy list of favorites covers an enormous stylistic spectrum. Gruhier’s Epineuil is routinely superb these days and especially so in ’18. The vintage’s richness can be a heavy burden for more southerly wines though here, just outside Chablis, the extra fruit makes a lovely contribution. Sabre’s ’21 Bourgogne seems clearly the strongest rendition since her doesn’t-make-sense ’17. Mugneret-Gibourg and Tremblay hardly require spotlighting though particularly strong vintages from each certainly merit mention.
Cheers,
Jason
