*Special Offer Price $64.95 per bottle with code JAMET
Centering value too strongly always risks losing a wine’s individuality. ‘Better than it ought to be’ seems a start, and yet a start only. Here is one of the Northern Rhône’s very strongest values though beyond this a wine of compelling and genuine distinction.
Whole-cluster has increased steadily here since Jean-Luc’s 2013 debut. This ’20 includes nearly 50% stems and their potpourri-like contribution perfumes the wine beautifully, that term’s subtle and delicate implications very much included. The vintage’s more classical style - certainly with respect to ’18 and ’19 - has lightened the fruit from cassis to redder cherry and raspberry notes.
The palate opens beautifully across an evening though retains its streamlined, classical style. Black pepper and cured meat-like details emerge an hour or so in. But it's the Morey-like fruit that carries the day, savory in the middle before picking up a sweetening slick of tannin to finish.