2023 Vollenweider Riesling 'Wolfer Goldgrube' Kabinett, Mosel

Vollenweider is quite simply, among the greatest practitioners of Kabinett on planet earth, part of a very small and elite group including Julian Haart, Egon Müller, Keller, Weiser-Künstler and Willi Schaefer – the young Julian Ludes of Hermann Ludes may join the ranks soon enough, but right now these are my five. Try and buy as much of this as you can.

"The Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett was harvested on old vines in the Jon sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It displays a most captivating and superbly complex nose of minty herbs, fine spices, vineyard peach, a delicate touch of almond cream, white and yellow flowers, and some bakery notes and residues from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine proves both light and intense on the focused and layered palate. There is a hint of cream and riper yellow fruits coming through, yet the finish is pure and vibrating. This is a great Kabinett in the making."