This little (little) parcel of Yann’s 2020 and 2021 reds centers the most recent of what are clearly his strongest cluster of vintages to date (2019-2021). The late-released 2020s evidence the joie de vivre possible this year just as the 2021s bring us to that growing season's elegant, ultra-pure beating heart.
As you’re likely aware, Yann worked at Domaine Prieuré-Roch for a decade before launching his own project in 2010. Principles and practices are recognizably Rochian and harnessed to notably pure, natural(ish) ends. Even more than chez Roch the results here impress clarity and elegance rather than funkiness.
Careful farming, Yann's contribution to Roch during his tenure, sets course for positive élévage despite the obvious risks of a natural approach. Over the years I’ve learned to trace in-glass results back to this perfectionist farming, particularly easy if you’ve had the benefit of walking his parcels.
Notes on the offered cuvées below:
2021 ‘La Gouzotte’ - The name references a stylistic aim rather than a parcel, a gouzotte being a small, precise knife used in vineyard work. A light-footed style, red berries and spice briskly paced by bright acidity. Mostly Hautes Côtes fruit but, again, more style than site-expressive.
2021 ‘Les Ponts Rouge’ - From a parcel sited just above Beaune, i.e. in the lower Hautes Côtes. For whatever reason(s) always among the alertest and most aromatic Durieux reds. Delicate, potpourri-like clusters.
2021 ‘Les Premier Ponts Rouge’ - A smashing value year in and out. From a tiny plot contiguous with the churchyard of the Abbaye de Saint Vivant in the Hautes Côtes. Denser and more mineral than Gouzotte and an altogether more serious 2021 framing.
2020 ‘GC - Gevrey-Chambertin’ - A powerhouse performance this year. Nevertheless, we’re gifted lithe and lifted aromatics. Substantial though not heavy, a refined harnessing of the vintage’s power.
2021 ‘Jeannot’ - Made from a single pass of ‘Les Dames Huguettes’ retaining only perfect fruit. 24 months in barrel, and Yann’s rarest red.
Cheers,
Jason
