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In his terrific yet modestly titled Burgundy: The Vineyards of the Côte d’Or, Armando Castagno offers the most useful description of Gevrey ‘Cazetiers’ of which I’m aware:
It renders a more powerful wine than Clos-Saint-Jacques, intensely fruity and floral in its youth, with a strong impact…supple and nuanced and never austere in a red that shows character and tannic grit, consistency, and structure.
‘More powerful than Clos-Saint-Jacques’ is the crucial starting point, the difference that makes the difference. ‘Clos Saint Jacques’ presents its red/black fruit subtly, even discreetly; the ‘Cazetiers’ cherries strike like a hammer blow.
Domaines Bruno Clair and Armand Rousseau, producing wines from both sites, allow side-by-side tasting. Invariably, ‘Cazetiers’ is darker and riper, more youthfully fragrant, the softer and fleshier of the two. It comes forward sooner, too.
Rousseau’s 2012s and 2013s have, speaking personally, provided a greater number of pleasurable bottles than any tandem this century. The 2013s have turtled up somewhat over the past year or so while the 2012s remain wide open.
Cheers,
Jason
