This tidy list centers upon a vertical of ’ l’Étonnant Monsieur Victor,’ Rudolphe Péters's musing on Champagne as wine and historical entity. As a blend of the best juice from ‘Les Chétillons’ and a multi-decade Mesnil solera, the cuvée asks,
To what do we owe our assumption that the best Champagnes ought to be vintage wines? And whatever the answer, is this assumption defensible?
It’s fascinating to taste ‘Victor’ alongside the straight ‘Les Chétillons.’ The latter is tighter and purer, more pleadingly mineral, though lacks the pâtisserie-like richness that is the solera’s ‘Victor’ contribution. It is in the end a matter of preference rather than obvious superiority.
Cheers,
Jason
