Thibault Morey’s 2019-2022 run set high expectations for his 2023s. New releases rarely show well when deliberately measured against past triumphs, though this set marks an exception. A good reminder that, nostalgias aside, Thibault continues to improve both in his vineyards and winery.
The set is considerably more transparent than the 2022s. ‘La Romanée’ tastes more like itself and the Puligny ‘Aubues’ does not converge upon Chassagne-like features. There’s plenty of citrus across the range and acidities are evenly distributed through their wines, making tight and toned textures a family trait this year.
What remains to discover is how finishes remain so mouthwatering and saline, particularly when warm vintage stereotyping has ‘soft’ and ‘lush’ at the reflexive ready.
Cheers,
Jason
