The Domaine Bruno Clair has been on an absolute tear in recent vintages. Philippe Brun has reduced the proportion of new oak that the wines see and increased somewhat the inclusion of whole clusters. The wines retain their elegant spines and the beautiful weight of sweet fruit, but they are more vivid and aerien than ever. While the 2017s were mightily appealing, the work at the domaine with the 18s to capture sucrosité without losing any balance has been an even more impressive success.
2018 Bruno Clair Marsannay 'Les Vaudanelles' - High on the slope, above 300m and with very thin top soil, this wine is as usual the most transparent, open and elegant wine of the range in this early stage. It's nimble and evanescent and the perfect wine to drink while waiting for its stable-mates to age.
2018 Bruno Clair Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru 'La Dominode' - This cuvée comes from the oldest vines of the domaine, planted in 1902, and a part of the climat 'Haut - Jarrons.' This has wonderfully rich fruit with tannins that are firm but not at all coarse. It will be a remarkable wine to follow and one of the best values for a wine that can be a real endurance-runner.
2018 Bruno Clair Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru 'Les Cazetiers' - This feels so often, as here, like the gem of the range. It showcases dark fruit with an insistent chalky minerality that makes for an addictive contrast. There's a bouquet of violets with a touch of smoky spice. It's a treat on its own but makes for a very special tasting experience to compare next to CSJ.
2018 Bruno Clair Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru 'Clos St Jacques' - A dense even mid purple, with a classical refined nose, this has resisted the heat very well. Brilliantly balanced, perfumed red fruit, no specific variety, seamless across the palate in a way the Cazetiers doesn’t quite manage. Exceptional aftertaste, the team have made a really great Clos St Jacques this year. - Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
The 2018 Bruno Clair 'Bonnes Mares' Grand Cru has an expressive bouquet of red berry and cassis fruit infused with iris and violet petals, gently unfolding with each swirl of the glass; oyster shell emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fine body and depth. The very mineral-driven, almost citric finish lingers in the mouth. Excellent. - Neal Martin, Vinous
The 2018 Bruno Clair 'Chambertin Clos de Bèze' Grand Cru has so much fruit on the nose: blackberry, sous-bois and cedar, more rose scents than I observed out of barrel last year. I feel that this is more powerful than the 2019, an unapologetically extravagant Clos de Bèze yet with a lithe, sensual finish that actually reminds more of Armand Rousseau. Yet - it's that good. - Neal Martin, Vinous