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Didier, my hero, makes some really thrilling whites yet no one seems to talk about them. On one of my visits he surprised us by opening the 1999 blanc, his first vintage. More surprising was how well it had matured. It was an extremely strong showing, with beautiful pretty reduction still. The palate had wonderful nuttiness but also this salinity almost like Chablis. The wines are very consistent and the 2019 is a great successor to his powerful 2018. Although it is impressive now, if you can hold it for 5 years you’ll see the magic. - Daniel
The secret is already out on this small domaine in Corgoloin. At least for the reds... Most of you know that these whole cluster beauties represent tremendous bang for your buck and seem to transcend the humble appellation of Côte de Nuits Villages. All the same, the beautiful Chardonnay that Didier makes from his less than a hectare parcel to the west of Corgoloin seems to remain underappreciated in the shadow of his reds. He gives the wine a slow fermentation at low temperatures for around three months and it is then aged a further year in barrels, around a fifth of which are new.
As Daniel mentioned these wines have an unbelievable aging capacity. Anyone lucky enough to have the 2011 will know how complex and fresh these wines can be. The 2019 is a vivid example of the wine that is already very showy. There’s bright lemon zest mingled with green apple and white flowers. A bright reduction harmonizes with a touch of new oak to provide a pretty patina above the wine. The palate is round yet buoyant with acidity and mineral tension. The chalky grip really balances mid-palate weight beautifully before a long, unexpectedly saline finish. At the four-pack price this really remains a tremendous value for its quality- don’t let the humble appellation stop you, this is top-notch White Burgundy.
Cheers,
- Spencer
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