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Jean-Marie Guffens’ Luberon-based ‘Tinus’ project answers the question ‘to what extent does terroir condition these singular wines?’ Less than one might think comes the reply, at least based on a recent tasting of this 2023. ‘Tastes like…Guffens’ sums our group's impression nicely.
‘Like Guffens’ reflects, firstly, the wine’s reductive intensity. This reduction is more delicate than is the case with Jean-Marie’s Mâconnais wines though cut from the same sweet citrus-and-honey cloth. I can count the number of sub-$40 whites so aromatically compelling on one hand.
Yet the palate is the wine’s pleasure center. Juicy clementine, white peach, and white currant flavors impress opulence while reduction works to tighten and trim back textural excess. The effect is a lovely push/pull, the fruit expanding outward and reduction pulling back to center.
From a single limestone-rich plateau.
Cheers,
Jason
