You already know that we are passionate ambassadors for Pascal Mugneret's fine, fragrant reds, and it's heartening to watch as general enthusiasm for his wines trends impressively upward. A year ago, for example, this offer would have oriented in an 'under the radar' direction, though now we are able to proceed with the cheerful confidence of merely contextualizing a producer whose wines have, well, 'arrived.'
The 2015 Bourgogne Rouge issues from four parcels, of which two are in Vosne (Lutinière and La Croix Blanche) and one in Chambolle (Maladières). The fourth, Les Champs Rouge, is pressed up against the Clos de Vougeot itself and, since 2017, has been bottled on its own. Pascal's Bourgogne has always been produced in a more 'serious' style, intending as he does for the wine to present as - and to age along the lines of - a solid villages. The 2015 joins a long string of successful renditions of this august cuvée, capturing the hedonistic intensity of the vintage while sidestepping any impression of heaviness.
The nose seems to tilt in the direction of Vosne-Romanée (as usual) with plum, black cherry, and clove notes leading the way. The fruit profile turns notably redder with time in the glass and an overall impression of freshness and brightness assertively emerges. There is that classic Mugneret touch of peel, too, which gives lift and dimension, as well as a sense of completeness that is rare at this price point. A wine to sublimely disarm any lingering doubts surrounding Burgundy's enduring capacity for wines of surpassing value.
'The 2015 Bourgogne Rouge has an attractive, quite pure bouquet with red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit. It feels light, airy even, but it is well defined. The palate is lively on the entry with crisp red cherry and raspberry fruit, a hint of spice popping up towards the vibrant finish.'
Neil Martin, The Wine Advocate