These 2023s strike me as Seth Morgen Long’s top-to-bottom best, which is vicariously to say among the largest achievements for the region to date.
Prior to these 2023s, I’ll suggest that a theoretical composite of Seth’s best 2021s and 2022s marked his maturest success to date; these 2023s, though, show both higher peaks and greater wine-to-wine consistency.
Reduction, always a guiding influence, glows more intensely than usual. This reduction tracks smokier and saltier than we’re conditioned to expect, the sweet citrus further from the surface. And while (superb) reduction lends a certain family resemblance across the range, beneath the covering lies impressively sharp terroir expression.
‘X-Omni' tugs in its usual ginger and white pepper direction and is much the most complex of the bunch. ‘Koosah’ is the fullest. ‘Witness Tree’ provides the most vivid example of 2023’s smoky/salty shadings and ‘Temperance Hill,’ though just mid-weight, is perhaps the most intense.
Very pleased to say these wines live light years beyond ‘good for the category.’ Remarkable wines, hard stop.
Cheers,
Jason
