These three grands crus mark '20 high points here just as the domaine's full set marks a high point for the region as a whole. Those of you who attended our Chablis grands crus seminar last month are likely nodding away as two Michel ‘20s stole the show that evening, brutal competition notwithstanding. One guest shared that the ‘Vaudésir’ tasted more like rocks than rocks taste like rocks, which feels perfect. Few wines so vividly convey the proximity of terroir
Not-a-wine in Michel’s cellar finished above 13% alcohol this year. They share a kind of vital energy, a combination of fruit-energy and structural energy that nevertheless feels smoothly, evenly distributed through the wines. The '20s are less ‘soft’ and more sinewy than the ‘19s here, but unequivocally completer and more dimensional.
The 3 grands crus merit a standalone offer as the extra richness vis-à-vis their ‘20 siblings sets them more clearly apart than usual. Tank-aging, a long-standing feature here, does its work in locking in precision and purity while also keeping textural outlines trim. These textures presents as strong and starched, dissenting clearly from the formlessness of many '20 grands crus.
Critic notes on the offered cuvées below:
2020 'Grenouilles'
'Aromas of green fruit, citrus peel, spice and sea breeze give way to succulent but reasonably refined larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract before concluding in a powerful, driving and equally structured finale. Excellent.'
Allen Meadows, Burghound
2020 'Vaudésir'
'On the palate the lacy middleweight flavors possess a gorgeous texture while delivering excellent delineation and persistence on the balanced finale. This elegant and highly refined effort dances across the palate and it too is really quite promising yet because of it's almost delicate mouthfeel, it could be enjoyed young if that's your preference.'
Allen Meadows, Burghound
2020 'Les Clos'
'The nose instantly makes clear that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its aromas of iodine, oyster shell, brine, citrus zest and green apple. The intense, powerful and focused larger-scaled flavors possess terrific delineation while exhibiting strikingly good length on the chiseled, youthfully austere and compact finish that is like rolling small rocks around in the mouth.'
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Cheers,
Jason
