The 1979 is a legendary vintage of CdC along with the mighty 1976. The wine is showing unbelievable depth and length along with great complexity. I love the energy on the palate with sublime elegance coming from one of the greatest vintages in Champagne. - Daniel
‘There are two categories of cellarmasters,’ claims Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, as he introduced chef du cave Loic Du Pont. ‘Those who travel and those who stay in the cellar.’ Loic falls into the latter category… ‘Loic is always in Reims. Our cellars were the cellars of monks, and we behave like monks: it is a small team but we try to maintain the atmosphere of a monastery—generosity, soul and friendship. Our walls and cellars influence us to keep this soul.’ - Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
The Taittinger Comtes de Champagne has always been considered a phenomenal value Tête de Cuvée by the Champagne cognoscenti I’m acquainted with- presumably because it has been so consistently great across the decades since its debut in 1952; on occasion however, as here, it is divine.
The Comtes de Champagne is composed of Chardonnay from five Grand Cru sites in the Cotes des Blancs: Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. The wine is aged in both stainless steel and in barrel, some small percentage of which are new, while post disgorgement the wine spends a decade in the deep chalk cellars of St-Niçaise.
The 1979 Comtes de Champagne opens with delightful butter scotch and lemon marmalade. There’s a light amontillado character as well. On the palate, its nutty and honeyed with ginger biscuits and a touch of vanilla. There’s excellent acidity and minerality. So much energy and richness at the same time. A touch of bitter orange and cinnamon appear towards the finish. A real kaleidoscope of pear, puff pastry and lime cordial. This is in a sweet spot right now, a really sweet spot.