2023 Julian Haart Riesling 'Rote Erden,' Rheinhessen

The "rote Erden" is Julian Haart's limestone-powered dry Riesling. It's more glycerin-rich and denser, more satiny and coating than the Mosel wines, yet it has 100% the form and thrilling clarity of a Julian Haart bottling. Haart's "rote Erden" is essentially a declassified Grand Cru, sourced 100% from the Zellertal am Schwarzen Herrgott - a cold, limestone-riddled vineyard in the Rheinhessen with parcels also recently acquired by Keller. While not a formal "trade" for the Schubertslay (the vineyard in the Mosel that Keller now makes a wine from) in an informal way it is part of an arrangement made by Keller and Julian. Julian farms the Schubertslay to Keller's specifications and in return, Keller farms the Schwarzen Herrgott to Julian's specifications. Harvest is dictated 100% by the grower making the wine and the grapes are driven to the growers' cellar - roughly an hour maybe an hour-and-twenty-minute drive, either way.