2022 Selbach-Oster Riesling Kabinett, Mosel (375 ml)

The Selbachs have been cultivating Riesling vines in the Mosel since 1661. Today, Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara run the estate, now one of the leading producers in the Mittelmosel.

There are 10.6 hectares of vineyards including holdings in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, and Graacher Domprobst. The grapes are handpicked and then fermented in traditional large oak barrels. The emphasis here is on finesse and purity of fruit, producing supremely elegant Kabinett and Spätlese wines as well as powerful, concentrated Auslese wines.

Halbtrocken, or “half-dry,” is often more confusing than helpful as a designation, but it fits this wine perfectly: On one hand, it’s as juicy as a fresh-picked apple, with a plump button-mushroom earthiness underneath; on the other, it’s lean and driving, with electric acidity and salty minerality. The combination is palate-whetting and powerful enough to stand up to a creamy mushroom fricassee, WS.