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Burgundy is a place too big for definitions. There is no wrong way, no right way. There is, though, a ‘traditional’ way, and most of the wines we champion are produced by such methods.
Most. Others, in their exceptionality, suggest beautiful alternatives by offering us aesthetic Otherness. And the most convincing of these wines succeed in thrilling us not merely in deviating from an established norm, but in articulating something definite and irresistible.
I’ve learned that the ‘differentness’ of such wines can delightfully confront assumptions we may share about the right way to do things. ‘Manon,’ Yann Durieux’s most visionary and convincing cuvée, is one such wine.
Particularly - but not only - the 2014 is a wine you need to taste rather than merely read about. It has a force of personality and particularity that is remarkable. That it is a natural wine is felt in its wildness and frenzied energy rather than idiosyncrasies traced to the process of its creation. You will first notice, however, it’s reductive power, which will begin the process of sucking you in the moment you move into its ambience. It is a wine of rare imaginative vision, even genius. And it is, above all, absurdly delicious. - Jason
My first taste of Yann’s wine was the Manon 2014 and I called Richard Leroy with confidence. Ever since then, I've tried to find his wines, but it was almost impossible. I’m so happy to offer his wines after searching for them for over a year. These wines are super impressive, with masterful reduction and beautiful mid-palate. - Daniel
Named for Yann’s daughter, this cuvée is perhaps the most immediately impressive of all of his wines. The vines issue from a magical site next to the Abbaye de Saint-Vivant de Vergy, on the hill of Curtil-Vergy in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. Yann has a famous neighbour here producing Chardonnay as well, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The vines face southwest and sit very high on the slope, above 400m. As is the norm with Yann, farming is fanatically careful and yields are very low. The wine has a 24 month élevage in old oak.
The wine immediately strikes one with the uniqueness of its register. There is powerful but superbly well-integrated pretty reduction. Lime candy, almost ester-like, mingles with green apple as well as almond and tangerine peel. The palate has a rich mid-palate yet a buoyant and pillowy texture with gentle acidity. The finish is both chalky and creamy. There are few listings globally and these are the only listings in the US. We have small quantities of these special wines, so don’t delay.
Cheers,
- Spencer
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