Always one of Champagne’s most accomplished oxidative cuvées, a recent showing of this 2009-based ‘Divine’ betters its standard as the strongest rendition to date. ‘Divine’ has long traded on a deep savory complexity and multi-layered texture, though here these features find too an energy whose quality and extent we hadn’t noted in previous releases.
‘Divine’ blends 80% Pinots and 20% Chardonnay from the middle-Marne villages of Châtillon, Hautvillers, and Cumières. There are 6 vintages total here (2004-2009) that spent 12 years on the lees. Two years of post-disgorgement cellaring has both integrated and lengthened the wine beautifully.
This is just entering its classic white chocolate/raw scallop early maturity where experience teaches it should stay for the next couple years. Another half decade in the cellar should unearth a marvel of complexity, most often adding a distinct mushroom stock-like depth redolent of mature Chablis. An essential pleasure for lovers of the style.
Cheers,
Jason
