Alix Millot is still inside a half-decade helming the family domaine, though her wines seem wise beyond their years. A certain gracefulness finds them, one characterized by a compelling fusion of urgent intensity with a seemingly effortless elegance. Though a restless experimenter, Alix's wines present as clear and coordinated rather than fluxed.
The ‘20s here show the outgoing and amiable side of the vintage. If the stereotypical ’20 is tannic, even Syrah-like, this is because anything less than adaptive, delicate vinification has left the vintage's high solid-to-juice ratio to ride roughshod over transparency and detail. Millot’s limpid, perky takes on the vintage feel two standard deviations purer and more exuberant than the year's mean. We tasted a few of them last week at the end of a ’20 power tasting; they felt like little slants of sunshine after a passing storm.
The 'Clos de Vougeot' is especially finessed. There is a touch of blood orange on the nose, a delicate and delightful touch. Both 'Ech' cuvées are lovely, broader and more intense though still primarily red-fruited. The old-vine cuvée has the extra bit of sap you'll be searching for.
Cheers,
Jason
