Cécile's in-bottle '18s clearly justify the optimism she expresses above, and in particular her confidence in their development upside. The shape and texture of the vintage is unlike any I've tasted here, and seems a world away from the domaine's supple, effortless ‘17s. The most striking aspect of these '18s is not that they are richer (they are) but that they also contain, paradoxically, more energy than their predecessors. After tasting a few cuvées together, Daniel described the vintage here with a sentiment that feels spot on: ’
There is first the obvious meaty richness, but they are so lifted at the same time. There is a hint of volatility that works very well in conveying an irresistible freshness. You get more red fruit than you might expect together with beautiful whole-cluster nuances, and then a strong spice character that seems consistent across the board this year. These are large-scaled wines but their combination of substance and freshness is just first class.’
These efforts go well beyond merely 'making the most' of '18. Their completeness, their power+elegance formula, transcend rather than typify the vintage. A view of '18 from its very summit.
Cheers,
Jason
