Lafon’s ’09 whites have always showed among the trimmest and purest of their vintage. Early picking has gifted the set with a sense of tension and precision that illuminate the hazard of vintage typecasting as much as the wines' bright-fruited profiles.
These '09s show unusually citrus-dominant flavors in a year where most feel more roasted and apple-y. Theirs is an opulent kind of citrus - think ripe tangerine and lemon custard - though citrus-familied nevertheless. Mid-palates are perky and upright, avoiding the formlessness of lesser '09s.
‘Clos de la Barre’ is especially lovely. It’s been several years though I remember it starring out at a blind Lafon dinner at Bâtard several years back. Most called it ’08 or ’10, a useful index of the wine’s priorities. It’s worth reminding that the Meursault villages includes a good portion of young vines from premiers crus ’Charmes’ and ‘Genevrières’ which do their usual work in conferring an extra bit of fruit and texture. Stones linger longest despite the full bore citrus intensity.
Cheers,
Jason
*this offer is pre-arrival with a late June eta
