The micro-negoçization of Burgundy over the past fifteen years leaves the pressing question: with scarcity and rising prices as constants within the category, which micro-negoçes are actually worth the required effort and investment? Most micro-negoçe tastings amount to nothing beyond new notches in our exploration of the category, though a smaller group offer the larger and more lasting pleasure of genuine discovery.
Jon Purcell’s wines achieve something beyond the usual goal of easy, open-textured pleasure. Density and structural sophistication are family traits here. The reds show plenty of wild, clustery fruit and youthful accessibility yet add to these real structural coherence. A typical Noé rouge is far more definite and decisive than category-conditioning has us expecting. If there are more stable outright sans soufre wines being produced on the Côte I’d love to know where to find them.
The St.-Aubin and Puligny parcels come from Domaine Jean-Jacques Morel which produced its last vintage in 2019. Purcell was drawn to them as they'd been farmed organically for years and seemed particularly suited to his stylistic intentions. I admit to less experience with the whites than the reds here; the bottles I've tasted have shared a wildness and vitality that give a quasi-improvised feel. Have really enjoyed them.
Noé typically produces just 700 cases per vintage across all appellations, so not much of anything. A teensy parcel here but, well, you can’t help what you love.
Cheers,
Jason
