In Burgundy the profound synergy between certain producers and particular sites is as difficult to fully understand as it is easy to convincingly observe. That Chassagne ‘Les Ruchottes,’ for example, marks a mean-expressive wine at Producer A and the clearly top wine at Producer B never ceases to fascinate. Vine age, plant material, and location within a parcel often help fill the gaps in understanding, though these are just as often inadequate. It seems more a matter of site and vigneron, material and intentionality, striking a kind of natural alignment.
Niellon’s ‘Clos St. Jean’ expresses such a place-producer affinity. There is always a touch of lime on the nose and flash of green in the glass, particulars you don’t find elsewhere. More important is the quality of reduction available with ‘Clos St. Jean,’ a uniquely vital and intense strain. It’s the most flattering reductive expression among the premiers crus year in and out recently, providing a sweet citrus backdrop to the wine's subtly stony/salty features.
Cheers,
Jason
