'Wines of Egon Müller are rare...but worth almost every sin.'
No cellar is complete without its Müller.
A friend brought a bottle of 1997 Auslese to dinner a few weeks ago where it was served alongside a few of the wine world's most coveted bottles. Daniel asked me to ‘pass the Müller’ four times that I can recall, and probably more. That wine had a savory depth that echoed like a song you get stuck in your head. Wild, beautiful stuff.
The world famous Scharzhofberger has become the most iconic single word in German wine, one ineluctable from the tireless work of Egon Müller's legendary domaine. Müller's connection with this Saar valley vineyard (pictured above) has lead to head-spinning ‘how is this possible?’ kind of results since the beginning. Slate soils and slow ripening, says Egon.
What next-levels these wines, well beyond their famously jeweled purity, is that their dazzling richness and variety uncannily find that power-without-weight formula that seems the demesne of the world’s greatest wines. The wines possess the rarest of all vinous features: originality. Egon's Scharzhofberger cuvées are not reducible to a blazon of particular features; instead, their singularity lies in the strangely emotive quality the wines so often locate. Their expressive mode is fundamentally affective. They are surpassing originals.
We are lucky to have a wide range of unique cuvées here, but please know there isn’t much of any of them. Here is a rare opportunity to snag a little family of bottles that you can follow with rapt attention in the years to come.