Today’s offer is of the fly-on-the-wall variety, as Daniel and I recently tasted this together and have looked forward to offering it since. We shared an admiration for how willingly the wine offered up its particular charms, as if running to greet us, arms extended. ‘A touch of super-high quality reduction, with well-integrated and expensive-seeming oak,’ Daniel says, a view I share wholly. There is also a floral perfume that is irresistible, adding a certain delicacy that gains confidence in the glass.
Chambolle’s ‘La Combe d’Orveau’ is one of the few climats in Burgundy that today is subdivided into villages, premier cru, and grand cru portions, though in the past the vineyard name was used without hierarchical distinction. Its lower part, in particular the portion sandwiched between the Clos Vougeot and Musigny, was absorbed into Musigny itself in the 1920s. The rest, including Taupenot’s .45 hectare parcel, endures as the source of one of Burgundy's most complete premier crus, one that combines the shimmering delicacy so particular to Chambolle with a power and structure seemingly appropriated from its mighty neighbor. In ‘17, it is a wonderful treat indeed.
We’ve been fans of these wines for years, as evidenced by verticals of Gevrey and Chambolle at Bâtard and Tribeca Grill dating back to our early days. For those new to the domaine, the reds have always traded on purity and a certain understated class rather than overt power, something it seems to have doubled down on over the past decade. Across the board, Taupenot is a terrific source for those seeking reds of clarity and polish, more red fruit than black, and lithe tannins that seem more intent on ‘framing’ the wine than clenching its charms, even in youth.