*we are thrilled to offer this distinguished cuvée at the lowest price in the country
When you walk Meursault ‘Charmes’ you sense how obviously Dominique Lafon benefits from his choice location in this large premier cru. The domaine’s vines are in the upper (better) part just below ‘Perrières’ and just across the Puligny border, a fine spot to snuggle into.
Lafon was an early advocate for ’09 whites noting a freshness and structural integrity that coordinated easily with the vintage’s ripeness. His top examples are among the strongest this year, a small group that wonderfully resists either/or (‘cool’/‘hot’) vintage typecasting. Similar to ’20 reds, the better ’09 whites have always wanted to pull us away from vintage-chart shortcutting and instead into their highly contextual synthesis of ‘classic’ and ‘warm’ vintage attributes.
The charm here is the co-starring of intellectual and sensual pleasure. The flavory middle is there but so too a formal integrity that is impossible to miss. You taste stones last, a useful index of the wine’s priorities.