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Cossard's tiny plot of 60 year-old massale vines perched 10 feet above 'La Tâche' is again this year the source of his most compelling red. The parcel, Vosne-Romanée's gifted 'Les Champs Perdrix,’ performs this role often, a now routine source of Cossard's completest and most stylish cuvée.
Like its iconic neighbor, ‘Perdrix’ yields reds of astonishing aromatic range. Calling the wine 'spicy' is like calling an open air spice market 'spicy’: accurate though hopelessly inadequate. Choose a spice, sweet or savory. Try to find it in this wine. You're likely to.
If you're a lover of effusive whole-cluster reds, I think you'll find this '21 a reference-point pleasure. It's slenderer than its ’20 and ’19 versions but not an inch less exuberant. The complexity mentioned above comes paired this year with next-level fruit purity.
The nose leads with its usual width of spice, touches of rose and lavender, then a few minutes later the fruit pierces through. I love that the middle of the wine already feels developed and detailed, a lovely addition to the full-throated aromatics. The finish is long, intense, and very pure, the clusters sustaining their peppery appeal a full minute after the fruit recedes.
A match race with ’19 for the best ‘Perdrix’ in recent memory.
Cheers,
Jason
