Few have accomplished more in their span than Alex Götze and Christoph Wolber. First vintage 2016: quick climbers indeed.
Each apprenticed in Burgundy (Bernard van Berg, Leflaive, Pierre Morey among others). And yet. It takes a single bottle of Wasenhaus to know how little motivated the pair appears to build Burgundian aesthetics into their wines. Different clones and different dirt provide an entirely new inspirational model.
I’ve come to find clarity, uber-clarity, the chiefest distinction of these wines. The reds are fine and fragrant and offer superbly alert, lucid aromatics. Other Baden Pinots tasted alongside - even the better ones - seem foggy and unavailable.
‘Bellen’ and ‘Möhlin’ make a fascinating side-by-side. Their parcels are just a few miles removed though the wines contrast strongly. ‘Bellen’ tunnels a subtler, more herbaceous and redder-fruited site. ‘Möhlin’ adds texture and flesh. Visionary wines both.
Cheers,
Jason
