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It seems right to start with ’old school’ here, though within the grouping Vincent’s wines present as more modern and tidier than most. They prioritize vineyard expression above ‘style,’ making the range a refreshing collection of individuals rather than a stylistically fused cluster. They’re best tasted side-by-side: Chames is Charmes and Poruzot, Poruzot.
Beyond this, here are a pair of Meursault wonderfully comfortable in their own skin. We’re spared the trendy impulse for deliberating toning and tightening textures in pursuit of a sparer and more Puligny-like aesthetic. Bouzereau’s premiers are fleshy and flavory, flush with fruit and peppered through with the toasted grain and salted butter nuances so natural to these terroirs.
Of the two, ‘Le Poruzot’ cuts a trimmer figure and shows more spice and floral details. ‘Charmes’ makes the most of its 70 year old vines and a choice location with this large cru, pushing ripeness further and its texture broader. The effect is one of pleasure and intensity rather than ‘weight.’
At-peak pleasures that would partner perfectly with the first flavors of Fall.
Cheers,
Jason
