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This ’16 disgorgement of Selosse’s ‘V.O.’ (‘Version Originale’) has always seemed a particularly complete rendition. Part of this must be ’08's positive contribution to the blend, though the interweaving of the wine’s three vintages - ’08, ’09, ’10 - impresses a sense of cohesiveness that lands further than ’08’s energy alone can account for.
‘V.O.’ unites high-elevation parcels in Avize, Cremant, and Oger. Their sum is one of Selosse’s most distinctive cuvées, one defined by a dramatic counterpoint of tension and concentration. Young disgorgements often feel led along by acidity and fresh citrus flavors, though time matures these in a more complex brioche and sweet citrus-scented direction.
Experience has taught that ‘V.O.’ benefits enormously from post-disgorgement cellaring. With a half decade or more the ‘mineral essence’ at the heart of Anselme Selosse’s winemaking vision starts to creep forward. And while this essence trends clearer and more expressive with time it always seems available earlier than its siblings, a quality this maturing disgorgement illustrates brilliantly.
Cheers,
Jason
