Chevillon undoubtedly short-lists ’13’s most successful domaines. The range makes much of the vintage’s slim, ultra-fresh tilt without succumbing to the sweet/sour character that annoys so many examples.
Interestingly, an unusually high percentage of those '13 Red Burgs drinking best today appear to be multi-parcel villages examples. A tentative theory has the vintage's reds benefiting enormously from the smoothing influence of blending, a position that seems to be strengthening with time. As the wines continue to age, many single-sites seem to struggle as solo acts while their ensembled counterparts often feel tighter and more cohesive.
Chevillon’s Nuits V.V. illustrates the point well. Both in terms of completeness and sheer pleasure-in-drinking the wine improves on many of the premiers crus this year. There is less '13 idiosyncracy and more Nuits character along with greater complexity and a clearer sense of harmony.
Note that this is among the ‘13s that should continue to improve. That said it feels perfect now, in particular if you like a bit of lusciousness in with all the savories.
Cheers,
Jason
*orders will be ready for pickup & delivery by end of day Wednesday
