The free-spirited whites of this Courgis-based domaine number among Chablis' most characterful. They have a 'go your own way' feel guided along by a naturalistic approach combining exceptionally thoughtful viticulture and a particularly extreme brand of hands-off winemaking.
I tend to find the wines wild and imaginative rather than 'natural,' at least in the term's looser implications. Essential regional character tends to find them despite their idiosyncrasies, but the salt and stones seem to spread more diffusely than usual. They are less centered in their minerality, yes, though no less mineral despite the non-traditional m.o.
'Rosette' comes from a particularly well-sited villages parcel in Courgis and is the source of a classic de Moor expression. There is good middle to the wine thanks to an extra bit of clay in the soil here, though the finish always tightens into a twist of lemon and limestone. The '15 in particular is in a beautiful place at the moment. The Bourgogne Chitry comes from 2 parcels a few miles due west of Courgis. The '14 is the strongest rendition I can remember and seems at-peak now. As usual it's the sparest, most essential wine in the cellar.
Cheers,
Jason
