Special Offer Price - $104.95 per bottle with code SYMBIOSE
I suppose these wines have been too good for too long to list recent releases among the ‘most improved’ in the region. And yet, if we agree the most difficult level for a producer to jump is that from ‘very good’ to ‘special,’ these oxidative gems ought at least to be honorary nominees. They have done much to put the little village of Hermonville on the map, despite it literally not being on seemingly any of them. ‘Hermonville...oh yeah, where the Minière guys are.’
‘Symbiose’ is the Minière tête de cuvée, if you like. That’s to say it is nominally the peer of the single-sites (Les Voirmissa, Les Moineaux) and a preference for either will trace to personal preference rather than hierarchical differentiation. One uniqueness of ‘Symbiose’ among blended têtes is that it unites the very parcels offered separately as standalones. The blend is roughly 50/50 ‘Les Voirmissa’ and ‘Les Moineaux,’ divided between equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from each.
Somehow the domaine’s oxidative style touches ‘Symbiose’ less than the other cuvées. Part of this is the driving freshness of ’13, though previous iterations tracked similarly. The nose offers up beautifully expressive notes of lemongrass, mint and flowers alongside the usual almond croissaint-like Minière richness. There is more citrus and a tauter thread of acidity than usual. The oxidative stuff builds in the glass without trampling the vividness of fruit and stones that finds the wine initially.
Unquestionably one of Champagne’s finest values. And though a more available pleasure than usual ('13!), this can easily cruise for a decade or more.
Cheers,
Jason
