*special offer price - $93.95 with code PAPES07
The aging trajectory of top-tier Rhône whites has long incited lively debate. Despite varied opinions, general consensus suggests either drinking the wines young for their fruit or much later after they have emerged from a long, dormant midlife. It's an odd but useful either/or, one seemingly the unique demesne of the region’s whites.
Paul-Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes advocates such a view. He's shared often that his white shows best in the full flush of youth or, alternatively, in the fullness of time, typically meaning a dozen years or more. I tend to feel that his white CDP really hits its stride about 10-15 years after the vintage. The treat is one of positive development (almonds, honey) unimpeded from any sense of decline.
This 2007 sits in just such a sweet spot. Time has leavened the wine’s early generosity with aromatic suggestions of anise, purple flowers, and a walnut-y complexity that recalls the appeal of oxidative Champagne. The palate is lovely, full yet lively in the apricot-y vein so particular to this cuvée. Rich and vigorous in the middle, the fruit gives way to a finish more spicy that juicy, a distinct ginger note lengthening the wine beautifully.
Equal parts Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Picpoul, and Bourboulenc.