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How many times have I been completely humbled by this cuvée blind? I wouldn’t trade those deliciously vexed hours for anything. It is a whole-cluster masterpiece, and among the most compelling examples in Burgundy of magic coaxed from an appellation we have been conditioned to view dismissively.
It is a wine to drink out in the flats of Corgoloin south of Nuits, among the vines from which it is produced, to sip silently and wonder ‘how is this possible?’ Alternatively, consider bringing it to a blind tasting with your savviest friends and be prepared to delight in the unexpected - Jason
Although recognition and acclaim continue to mount for Didier Fornerol’s wines, they remain in my opinion some of the finest values in all of Burgundy. The quality of these wines from Corgoloin have the capacity to astonish and they are regularly transfixing in their pronounced florality and exuberance. That said, the wines issue from small parcels and yields are not tremendous even in fine vintages, so there will never be enough to go around. Look carefully and you’ll notice that there is scant availability of any wines older than 2018 to be found anywhere- savvy collectors snap up current releases quickly, and I can assure you that the small yields of the ‘19 vintage which are here particularly fine, will not last long.
The Côte de Nuits-Villages is composed of three different parcels west of the village of Corgoloin and together total a meager 0.80ha. The vines average 40 years old and the bunches are fermented whole-cluster; the fermenting wines are treated to gentle extraction via manual punching down and pumping over and then aged in mostly old barrels. The results are transparent, mineral wines of extreme delicacy and fine tannins.
The 2019 Côte de Nuits-Villages is a superb success for Fornerol, pouring ruby in the glass and offering a panoply of aromatics in the nose. Raspberry and wild strawberries mingle with cloves and condensed violets. There is a beautiful balance between purity of fruit and a savory, slightly peppery earthiness. The palate offers cool fruit and an almost painfully mineral palate which at the same time is neither linear nor austere. The tannins are super refined and the finish is nicely sappy. While this will doubtless improve, it already presents itself as immensely satisfying and complete. At this moment, it is difficult to propose other Burgundies at this price point that can plausibly compete in terms of pure pleasure.
Cheers,
- Spencer
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