Niellon's son-in-law, Michel Coutoux, is routinely producing wines of impressively consistent quality and style. This is a domaine in fine form today, and readers who have fallen out of touch with the wines are advised to reacquaint themselves with this excellent producer. - William Kelley, RPWA
I strongly believe that there is a small subset of ’18 white Burgs that are among the most hedonistically gratifying wines of their decade. Certain producers seem to have identified the generosity and richness conferred by the growing season and intuitively implemented an approach in the winery designed to tighten and focus their wines. Niellon is absolutely on this short list of ‘18s top performers, with ultra-stylish reduction framing the cheerful opulence of the vintage in a masterful way.
This wine, like other wines on the ‘right side’ of ’18, derives vitality via a citric element that tends to run in a lemon cream-y direction. This isn’t ‘soft’ or stone fruit-y, but instead feels like an amped-up and more decadent version of itself. It’s an absolute pleasure bomb, and a pure delight to drink. - Jason
It’s a shame that this domaine had serious premox issues in the past, because despite a blemished reputation Niellon has just nailed so many vintages since 2014. Weirdly, I particularly love their riper vintages; they somehow have this beautiful strong reduction. The 2018 Chassagne is surprisingly fresh with explosive matchstick reduction and pronounced minerality. The fruit expression is pure and broad on the palate. This is outstanding Chassagne that offers rich and ripe fruit with plenty of acidity. So easy to love! - Daniel
We had a very strong response to our offer of the lovely 2017 Villages from this domaine several weeks ago and it is a delight to offer out this most over-achieving 2018. I think anyone who has the pre-conception that '17s are simply superior to '18s will be happily surprised by the combination of hedonistic opulence and energy on display here, and, most of all, the aromatic fireworks that erupt from the glass. Along with being an excellent Chassagne Villages, this is a wonderfully pleasurable bottle of wine.
For those unfamiliar with the Domaine: Niellon is one of the great masters of Chassagne, working in his own distinct style. The wines certainly have a checkered past with prem-ox incidence but it seems we are clearly beyond that and are free to enjoy these delightfully hedonistic wines without fear. These are not whites for the faint of heart- they are boldly reductive and evince more than a little attractive new oak. No matter the vintage, with the domaine's old vines and low yields, the wines display a generosity of fruit and dry extract without lacking minerality or tension.