Despite production totaling fewer than 1,000 bottles per year, a strong case can be made supporting ‘Les Moineaux’ as the completest wine in this perfectionist cellar. 2015 is just the second vintage of this single-vineyard blanc de blancs, but back-to-back releases have traced the outline of a cuvée that melds uniquely well with the barrel-fermented, oxidative formula so expressively stamped on the Minière wines.
‘Les Moineaux’ is a small parcel of old-vine Chardonnay sited in Hermonville at the northern end of the Montage de Reims. Here is apparently a site with much to say and the vocabulary to do so eloquently, from the smoky, crème anglaise-inflected nose through to the cream-textured, sweet citrusy palate. Most notably, the site shows a penchant for activity, retaining impressive energy despite the gently contoured texture.
The 2015 is even more composed than the 2014, opening slowly to reveal expressive notes of ginger and white tea alongside the familiar ripe citrus. The palate swells impressively as the wine sits in its glass, turning more mandarin and white chocolate-y with time. I love the savory depth and how it runs up against the more decadent oxidative notes, impressing an irresistible sweet/salty appeal.
Cheers,
Jason
