Get in on the ground floor, folks: Thomas is a rising star, and his tiny domaine won’t be under the radar much longer. Last month, we scrounged together enough of the 2017 Chablis Montmains to offer, and our inbox has had a steady stream of positive impressions ever since. You’ve shared our sense that in addition to superb quality, these wines are absolutely saturated with Chablisien character. The marine character - both saline and algae - is present to the point of being insisted upon, and the overall impression of purity and transparency is striking. The Montée de Tonnerre, perhaps the appellation’s senior premier cru, is more solidly built than the Montmains, more serious, more structured: in short, more MdT! With a light decant, this is ready for your most umami-rich seafood go-to. If you’re particularly fond of mature Chablis (hi Daniel!), give this a decade in the cellar and marvel at the other side. - Jason
MDT 2017 is much more serious, and a bit tighter compared to the Montmains- which makes sense. It offers greater structure, layers, and a longer finish. To any fan of Chablis, Labille is bringing serious value and excitement. I’d decant the wine 3-5 hours before, and enjoy the beautiful 2017 MDT on my own. I don’t want to share haha - Daniel
We offered Labille’s 2017 Montmains a couple of months ago and we were extraordinarily encouraged by the response to that proposal. Ever since then, we’ve been impatiently waiting for the arrival of this most excellent cuvée.Often considered to be the finest premier cru in Chablis and indissociably linked with Domaine François Raveneau, the Montée de Tonnerre vineyard lies on the right bank of the Serein just east of Grand Cru Blanchot. It is a notably stony vineyard, gently sloped with a perfect southwestern exposure.
The 2017 MDT is pale yellow in the glass, and waves of yellow fruit and savory pecorino elements issue from the wine. There’s a deep reservoir of quite neutral fruit, all the better for salinity and faint creaminess to make themselves apparent. There’s just a touch of fat on the midpalate with intense minerality behind and extremely well-integrated acidity. Compared to the Montmains this is notably more intense and powerful in scale yet more discreet on the nose. While this already offers tremendous pleasure, it is clear that there is much in reserve for those who are patient.
Thomas Labille previously worked at Domaine Laroche and is clearly a prime talent. His ambitions are grand as he recently joined forces with Etienne Boileau to run the Domaine du Chardonnay in 2019. We’re extremely excited to see where he goes from here as the signs are nothing but promising.