Wow, the reduction is intense! It reminds me of the 2017 La Dent de Chien. The wine is full of flinty reduction and strong lemon citrus with classic 2017 acidity and tension. The mid-palate is complex and fun with strong personality and the finish is superb. PLEASE decant this wine about an hour to blow off some reduction and you’ll see the magic =) - Daniel
I prefer to think of a great vintage as an opportunity rather than a guarantor of success, a fastball-down-the-middle that still requires precise execution. 2017s are often very good but truly distinguished more rarely, as is the case here.
Maltroye killed it in ‘17. Across the range the wines are pure and precise, with a remarkable inner energy that comes from both place and vigilant winemaking. The 2017 ‘Grands Ruchottes’ has that classic high slope Chassagne character, more citrus-and-rocks than one finds in wines downslope.This manages to be both impressive and lovely, just my kind of juice. - Jason
Château de la Maltroye is quietly going from strength to strength. Connoisseurs seem well aware of the magical La Dent de Chien by its distinctive label and the climat’s pride of place above Le Montrachet. Yet the overall rise in quality and consistency of the Château de la Maltroye since 2015 seems to have passed by unnoticed. The style has become more finely polished and assertively reductive. There remains evident ripeness and concentration to the wines yet they do not fail to transmit an underlying citric energy and powerful minerality.
In 2017 the wines are quite astonishingly good. The combination of pungent reduction, which mellows into a pillowy lime puff, and tense lemony cores can hardly fail to please. The Grandes-Ruchottes, which vies with La Romanée, Grande Montagne and Cailleret for superiority amongst the cluster of central high-slope vineyards in the village, is showy and glorious in the vintage. There is mid-palate weight, bright acidity and a lengthy finish- the nose boasts a complex layering of reduction and ebullient fruit, which, if you follow Daniel’s advice in decanting, ends up beautifully symphonic. Bearing the wine’s quality in mind, along with the tight market for white Burgundy, this is a fine bargain.
- Spencer
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