2014 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese

2014 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese $249.95
3 Pack Pricing ($219.99/btl; applies automatically) $659.97

Only US availability.

When one takes a closer look at what Müller’s approach means, vintage by vintage in the glass, one realizes that few winegrowers have the willingness or the wherewithal to so rigorously apply the principles of optimizing both quality and vintage character. There can be few better examples than 2014. It was not only one of the briefest harvests in estate history but also one of the smallest, bypassing any fruit that looked to be, let alone smelled, in the least questionable.  The upshot is phenomenally extract-rich wines of an almost savage youthful concentration, brightness and penetrance achievable only by someone willing to incur enormous cost and crop loss but also to countenance vintage character (and, from year to year, concomitant vintage variation) so extreme that few growers would trust their customers to accept it. - David Schildknecht, Vinous

As time goes by the enormity of the achievement of Egon Müller in the Scharzhofberger becomes more obvious and more widely recognized. In terms of traditionally-styled German Riesling, these wines, and they alone, represent the pinnacle. This is the result of a union between obsessive no-compromise winemaking, a boundless respect for traditional style and a singularly fine site where Riesling reaches its apogee. 

The Scharzhofberger (pictured above) is so esteemed a vineyard that no village name has ever needed to be appended. A German Grand Cru indeed, and as Chambertin is to Rousseau, so Scharzhofberger is to Müller. The famous site in the Saar has the mixture of red and grey slate typical of the Mosel and has a perfect South and Southeastern exposure. 

The 2014 Spätlese remains imperturbably youthful, crystalline, energetic and fresh. There are beautifully harmonized modulations of lime and pear candy along with intriguing winter herbs. The palate has an intense concentration of flavor that seems to bypass normal channels and jump straight into riveting control of your sensorium. The combination of cool polished fruit, lingering savory, smoky minerality and brilliant acidity is addictive. Magic in a bottle, and utterly unique. We are lucky to present this pristine parcel, but it is a small parcel alas.

Cheers,

- Spencer


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