Special Offer Price - $73.95 per bottle with code CDP
Bosquet’s Nicolas Boiron endures as an arch-traditionalist in an increasingly modern-minded region. His top cuvées age beautifully, tending to evolve along a distinct mesquite and smoke-scented trajectory. The wildness and savory depth they show in maturity reminds me most closely of the wines of the late Henri Bonneau.
‘Chante le Merle’ is the top wine in the cellar and unites the domaine’s oldest plots in 4 lieux-dits (including a hefty contribution from Pignan). It blends 80% old-vine Grenache with 10% each Syrah and Mourvèdre. Like other traditionalists Boiron likes whole clusters, lots of them, and their skillful use adds positively to both texture and aromatics. Nearly two years aging in foudre blurs varietality in favor of a larger Mediterranean savor, Provençal herbs particularly.
A recent bottle of the 2005 ‘Chante le Merle’ showed beautifully. Intense spice notes and loads of hickory wood/barbecue smoke lead the nose though the fruit peeking through is fresh and pure, centering the savory complexity. The usual ’05 robustness is here though the wine benefits from even short decanting. A measure of firmness and austerity remain, but the kirsch-y fruit and savory intensity move about more freely with time.
Lovely now, this should continue to drink well for at least another decade.
Cheers,
Jason
