*special offer price - $144.95 with code FONTENYS
If you’re going to own just one premier cru holding, a little patch of 90 year old vines abutting ‘Ruchottes-Chambertin’ is about as well as one could hope for. The Roty family makes the most of the opportunity with their Gevrey ‘Les Fontenys,’ a cuvée that often tiers with their glorious trio of grands crus. At about 1/3 of the price of them, it’s the Roty sweet spot.
2013 is the last vintage piloted fully to bottle by Philippe Roty before his passing in late 2015. The wines have always been terrific though they seemed more tightly wound than most for the better part of a decade. They are now drinking as well as anything you’ll find in Gevrey this year.
The nose is splendidly open and generous, crammed full of purple fruit and spice in ‘Clos de Bèze’-like tandem. It’s the kind of nose you sniff away at addictively, the fruit starting thickly ripe then gaining finesse and delicacy with time. Though notably generous, you never lose the pulsing energy of ’13. A grand cru performance this year.