2022 Saalwachter Silvaner 'Alte Reben,' Rheinhessen

Silvaner can have many faces, depending where it's grown and the style of the winemaker. On Carsten hands, Silvaner is serious stuff, one of the most cutting examples from the region, clocking in at a refreshing 11.5%. Carsten often calls this bottling his “Saalwächter water,” meaning the wine is just so essential and refreshing that you should drink it like water – but there is a sternness to be found here. The 2022 is wild and raw, with herbal and smoky phenolics, tree sap and pine-needle, forest-floor distillates. Delicately oxidative, the citrus and yellow-fruit is subtle, overshadowed right now by the smoke and phenolic grip, the salty minerality and gripping acidity. We recommend decanting prior to serving, or just give a good shake after opening.