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Tutto Wines: What is your favourite wine that you have made to date?
Frédéric Cossard: Perhaps it is a new one, the Morey-Saint-Denis ‘Les Champs de la Vigne’ 2019 which I made in the qvevris. Laure [his wife] is very angry at me, as I have enjoyed too many bottles myself and with my friends.
2017 'Champs de la Vigne' was the wine that really got me into the Cossard game, and the 2019 'Qvevris' bottling is as seductive and flamboyant as the 2017... maybe more? The wine displays beautiful sour cherries, dry flowers, and chalky minerality. The palate is showing more concentration with a great length on the finish. I decanted 2hrs after a sip and it was utterly outstanding. That being said, it should add more fat in the next few years, so please don’t pop them all! - Daniel
Here is a juicy opportunity to glimpse one of ‘19’s defining features: - a certain ‘special energy.’ Usually we recruit this descriptor in conveying the edginess that results from prominent acidity (‘14, ‘17), but in ‘19 this energy seems to present differently. ‘19s have a florabundance of vital energy and yet it tends to present in a more controlled and less hyperactive way than one finds in ‘cool vintage’ wines. The body of ‘19s are also more agile and less rigid than, say, ‘14s, with a textural tenderness one struggles to locate in generically cool vintages, however much we may love certain of their wines. As I have written before, you will never express a reluctance for having brought too deeply into this remarkably complete vintage… - Jason
This is an ebullient and just plain delightful bottling from Fred. From 50 year old Pinot Fin vines in the lieu-dit 'Champs de la Vigne' at the northern end of Morey, this wine is aged in quevri and has retained amazingly energetic fruit. On the nose, there is an intoxicating mix of lavender kernel, earthy dark fruit, whole cluster spice and, as if lit from within, a ray of sour red cherry. The palate is just waves of fruit interlaced with chalky plateaus. Tannins are ever so fine, even already melting into the sweetness of fruit which is nevertheless balanced by pretty acidity. This is Cossard at his most raw, direct and exuberant... yet at the same time easygoing. A delightful treat, not to be missed.
Frédéric Cossard must be the greatest former milkman to be making wine today (or ever; let me know who I'm missing). After a brief stint as a wine merchant Cossard set up shop in Saint Romain and began making Burgundy at once without chemicals in the vineyard nor sulfur in the cellar. The wines nevertheless avoided the imbalanced, grainy or yeasty fate of some other fellow low intervention winemakers in the Côte. No, Frédéric's wines, whether under his own name or that of Domaine de Chassorney, have managed to guard a purity that is the envy of many. These are wines to seek out.
Cheers,
- Spencer
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