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Centering value too strongly always risks losing a wine’s individuality.  ‘Better than it ought to be’ seems a start, and yet a start only.  Here is one of the Northern Rhône’s very strongest values though beyond this a wine of compelling and genuine distinction. 

Whole-cluster has increased steadily here since Jean-Luc’s 2013 debut.  This ’20 includes nearly 50% stems and their potpourri-like contribution perfumes the wine beautifully, that term’s subtle and delicate implications very much included.  The vintage’s more classical style - certainly with respect to ’18 and ’19 - has lightened the fruit from cassis to redder cherry and raspberry notes.   

The palate opens beautifully across an evening though retains its streamlined, classical style.  Black pepper and cured meat-like details emerge an hour or so in.  But it's the Morey-like fruit that carries the day, savory in the middle before picking up a sweetening slick of tannin to finish. 

Cheers,   

Jason

 

 

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