2020 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 'Aux Malconsorts'

The Domaine practices lutte raisonnée, a system of vine cultivation that is essentially organic and noninterventionist. Cathiard completely de-stems the fruit and employs cold maceration for 4-8 days, depending on the vintage. Fermentation occurs over indigenous yeasts for 16-22 days and reaches a fairly high 31°-32° C. The frequency of pigéage and length of cuvaison is adapted to the vintage. The young wine is then racked into Allier barrels (30-40% new oak for village-level, and 60-70% for the Premier Cru) and aged 18-20 months. After assemblage, the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. The wines of Sylvain Cathiard are reference-standards. The subtle differences among the crus are readily apparent, and illustrate both the authority and the magic of terroir. Cathiard wines are lush and opulent, to be certain, and without the slightest hint of forced extraction or excess sweetness; and they are harmonious and balanced and delicate. But the overriding impression that Cathiard wines give is one of absolute precision: striking each prescribed note perfectly in pitch and tone, without ever a hint of excess or discordance.